Fiberglass versus Polyester

Dimensional Stability:

Characteristics

Fiberglass dose not stretch, shrink or twist nor is it affected by extreme changes in temperature.

Polyester fabrics will stretch when exposed to solar heat.

Results

The stability of fiberglass fabrics allow for even roll up of the shade material eliminating traveling from side to side, without the use of unsightly battens.

The stretching of the polyester fabric causes waves and buckling of the fabric which necessitates the use of battens in shades approximately 12 feet in height and above.

Yarn Count And Thickness:

Characteristics

Fiberglass fabrics use a much finer yarn than their polyester counterpart, resulting in more yarns per square inch.

Polyester fabrics are made of wider diameter yarns, resulting in fewer yarns per square inch.

Results

The greater the yarn count for a given openness factor, the better the outward view.

Using the thicker polyester yarn causes the eye to focus on the yarn itself, thus diminishing the outside view.

PVC Coating:

Characteristics

The strength and stability of the fiberglass fabric results in the need for a thinner coating of PVC.

The less stable polyester fabrics require a thicker coating of PVC.

Results

The thinner coating results in a more uniformly stable and strong fabric, as the fabric’s strength comes from its fiberglass yarn.

The thicker coating results in more instability and reduced strength of the polyester fabric.

How to Weave Fiberglass Cloth?

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fiberglass fabric or cloth structure on the weaving machine or loom.

The yarns system in the lengthwise direction of the fabric is called the warp. It is supplied to the weaving machine on a loom beam. Warp yarns are often called ends. 

The yarns crossing the warp are referred to as weft or filling. On the new loom generation, they are inserted in the fabric by a weft feeder, allowing for a regular unwinding.

The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. Almost any weave pattern can be woven with glass product. The basic patterns are: plain, basket, twill and their derivatives, unidirectional, as well as leno weave for producing meshes.

Description of the process

The weaving process is made up of five basic mechanisms:

Mechanism 1:  The let-off motion distributes the warp to the loom.

Mechanism 2:  A warp shedding mechanism moves the warp yarn up and down according to the weave pattern.

Mechanism 3:  A filling insertion system introduces the filling between the openings of the warp yarns (also called shed) carried out by the shedding mechanism.

Filling glass products are basically inserted using modern picking systems:

o Air jet

o Rapier

o Projectiles

o Needle (loom for narrow fabrics)

Mechanism 4:  A reed moved by the beat-up motion beats the filling between the warp yarns against the fabric in formation.

Mechanism 5:  A fabric take-up regulates the filling density and the fabric is wound onto a tube on the loom or with a separate winding device.

How to Make a Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic Mold

A fiberglass mold is rather simple to make, but it takes a few days. The idea of a mold is to make a replica of the item that you need. You will be able to reuse the mold many times after. It will be easier and take less time if you are able to find a mold of your liking at a company that specializes in making fiberglass molds.

Develop a plug. A plug is an article that is used to develop a mold. It is usually made out of wood, plaster, putty, sheet metal or Formica. The plug will need to be in the shape and the right dimensions that you want the mold to be.

Prepare plug. If the plug has many opene pours, such as wood, plaster or putty, then it will need to be filled in with resin or lacquer. Buff and seal the plug with TR-301 and TR-311. If plaster is being used, you will need to oven dry it first and then seal it. Apply a mold release which is Partall Paste #2. After applying the mold release, wait until it dries before putting on another. You will apply up to five coats. Buff it each timel.

Spray polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) to the plug. Apply up to three coats and allow at least 30 minutes to dry.

Cover the plug with MEK peroxide hardener. Apply a gelcoat with a bristle roller on the plug that will make the fiberglass mold surface. The gelcoat needs to be wax free. Consider using a tooling gelcoat if there are many parts that will need to be removed from the mold. This will enhance the longevity of the mold. There will need to be at least two coats applied with 4 hours of drying in between coats. Allow at least 24 hours to fully dry.

Apply the skin coat. This will be about 1 oz. of fiberglass chopped strand mat or fiberglass cloth that is thin enough for you to remove all the air pockets. Apply a general purpose polyester resin with a roller and spread it evenly. Make sure there are no white fibers and air bubbles left before letting it dry. Allow at least one day to dry before adding another layer of resin on mold. Apply a total of three or more layers to make the mold strong enough.

Remove the fiberglass mold. For the fiberglass mold to hold its shape, it is recommended to leave the mold to dry for several days after the final coating of resin is added. Cut off excess resin or fiberglass with a metal cutting blade. Sand gently until you can see the line between the mold and the plug. Use a plastic wedge or stirring stick to get between the mold and plug, and then separate.

Sand the mold with a 220 grit working up to a 600 grit. Apply Partall Paste #2. Use a heavy duty cleaner and then a sealer glaze in order to get the cleanest appearance.

Things You'll Need

- Sandpaper

- Plastic wedger or stirring stick

- Partall Paste #2

- Buffing pad

- TR 301 and 311 gelcoat

- Resin

- Cutting blade

- Bristle roller

- 1 oz. chopped strand mat and fiberglass cloth

Tips & Warnings

• Wait until each coat is dry before applying an additional coat of resin.
• Don't use gelcoat with wax in it.

source: http://www.ehow.com/how_4595729_make-fiberglass-molds.html

How to Apply Fiberglass Cloth

Fiberglass cloth is a tightly woven fiberglass material typically used in marine and composite construction and repair applications. The cloth is lightweight and quick to apply. Once applied, it creates a strong, rigid waterproof layer as well as a smooth surface suitable for painting. No matter the size of the project, the application of the cloth is essentially the same. Applied with the aid of resin, fiberglass cloth creates a durable, lasting surface.

Sand the surface of the object to which you’re applying the fiberglass cloth. Use fine grain sandpaper to create a smooth surface that will take the cloth easily. Brush the surface with a large brush to remove the sanding residue and then go over the surface with a wax-impregnated tack rag to make certain it’s completely clean.

Use a rotary cutter to cut fiberglass cloth to fit the object that you’re covering. Make the cut so that the cloth is slightly larger than needed to leave room for any necessary shifting of the cloth during placement. Cut the cloth on a cutting board, using the rotary cutter blade to smoothly cut the cloth without causing tears.

Mix a batch of resin in a bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use enough to cover the object, The resin serves as both an adhesive for the cloth and as a filler for the cloth pores to provide the watertight surface. Wait about three minutes after mixing for the resin to catalyze.

Brush a coat of resin onto the object to be covered. Apply a thin layer of the resin along the entire surface of the object. Wait 30 minutes for the resin to cure.

Place the fiberglass cloth onto the object, taking care not to allow bunching or wrinkling to occur. Place the cloth so that it overlaps the sides slightly, about ½ inch.

Pour the resin over the cloth, slowly covering the surface of the cloth. Spread the resin over the cloth in a thin layer, working from the center of the cloth to the edges. The resin will seep through the cloth and bond it directly to the object. Try to maintain an even layering of the resin over the cloth, but build up a slightly thicker resin layer along the edges to prevent the cloth from peeling away.

Wipe away any excess resin on the cloth with a squeegee. Allow the resin 30 minutes curing time before continuing.

Use the rotary cutter to trim away the excess cloth from the edges of the object. Sand the ends of the cloth until even with the surface of your object.

Apply a third resin coating over the cloth using a brush to spread the resin in place. The third coat fills any pores between the fibers and only requires a very thin layer for effectiveness. Wait 30 minutes more for curing.

Brush a fourth layer over the cloth as a finish layer to build up enough of a resin coating for sanding purposes. Allow this final coat to cure for 24 hours.

Sand the resin covered cloth smooth, removing any imperfections left by the resin application. Wipe the fiberglass cloth down with tack cloth to remove the sanding residue.

Source: http://www.ehow.com/how_6675379_apply-fiberglass-cloth.html

How to Make Fiberglass

Fiberglass is widely used in many industries. The making process of fiberglass can be broken down into five basic steps: batching, melting, fiberization, coating and drying/packaging.

1 Batching

The basic raw materials for fiberglass products are a variety of natural minerals and manufactured chemicals. The major ingredients are silica sand, limestone, and soda ash. Other ingredients may include calcined alumina, borax, feldspar, nepheline syenite, magnesite, and kaolin clay, among others. In the initial stage of glass manufacture, these materials must be carefully weighed in exact quantities and thoroughly mixed (batched).

2 Melting

Once the batch is prepared, it is fed into a furnace for melting. The furnace may be heated by electricity, fossil fuel, or a combination of the two. The molten glass must be kept the temperature at 1370ºC/2500ºF to transfer to forming tool - bushing.

3 Fiberization

Fiberglass formation, or fiberization, involves a combination of extrusion and attenuation. In extrusion, the molten glass passes out of the forehearth through a bushing made of an erosion-resistant platinum/rhodium alloy with very fine orifices, from 200 to as many as 8,000. Bushing plates are heated electronically, and their temperature is precisely controlled to maintain a constant glass viscosity. Water jets cool the filaments as they exit the bushing at roughly 1204ºC/2200ºF.

4 Coating

In the final stage, a chemical coating, or size, is applied, which help to protect the filaments from abrading and breaking as they are collected and wound into forming packages and, later, when they are processed by weavers or other converters into fabrics or other reinforcement forms.

5 Drying/packaging

Finally, the drawn, sized filaments are collected together into a bundle, forming a glass strand composed of 51 to 1,624 filaments. The strand is wound onto a drum into a forming package that resembles a spool of thread. The forming packages, still wet from water cooling and sizing, are then dried in an oven, and afterward they are ready to be palletized and shipped or further processed into chopped fiber, roving or yarn.

The fiberglass can be made into different products for different applications such as fiberglass cloth, chopped strand mat and other fiberglass composites.

How to Remove Fiberglass From Skin

Fiberglass is a material widely used for construction and industrial applications, such as fiberglass fabric. Fiberglass contains small, sharp splinters of glass that are easy to getting stuck in skin, so you should cover as much as your body as possible by wearing long pants, long sleeves, work boots and heavy duty gloves when working with fiberglass. However, even if you follow this advice, it's quite likely that you will still get splinters, usually in the skin of your fingers and hands. Along with the pain associated with fiberglass splinters, the material also makes you itch uncontrollably. Here is a small tip of using sticky tape to remove fiber easily from your skin.

1 Find a roll of sticky tape. You need a tape, like duct tape or electrical tape, that will not rip into pieces when it is pulled. The tape is better with a lot of glue to stick to the fiberglass splinters, 

2 Do not wash the affected area. This technique works best if the tape can get a solid hold on the fiberglass splinters. Water will make the fiberglass slivers soft and harder to pull out of your skin.

3 Press the tape firmly onto the area(s) with the fiberglass splinters. Hold the tape in place for several minutes with your hand. Make sure the tape makes good contact with your skin and the fiberglass splinters.

4 Pull off the tape in one smooth motion, if you can. Ripping the tape off in a sudden or jerky fashion could take some skin with it, or create sores. This will make the fiberglass splinters even harder to remove. Grip the tape as close to your skin as possible and peel it up and away from your skin. It may be necessary for you to repeat this step several times.

5 Wash the area with soap and water after all the fiberglass is gone. Pat the area dry. Apply an antibiotic ointment to prevent infection.

Fiberglass Cloth MSDS

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET

Product Name: FIBERGLASS CLOTH

Chemical Name: Fibrous glass

HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS:
FIBROUS GLASS:		CAS # 65997-17-3	99.94%
FIBROUS GLASS DUST:			% not known *
* Amount will be dependent upon method of handling.
Exposure Limits:		ACGH TLV (Source): 5mg/m3, OSHA PEL (Source): 5mg/m3
PHYSICAL DATA:
Appearance & Odour:	Solid, White no odor
Vapour Pressure:	2.00 hPa
Vapour Density:	N/A
Solubility in Water:	Negligible
Specific Gravity:	Approximately 2.5
Evaporation Rate:	N/A
Softening Point:	Approximately 835ºC
Density:	2.560 g/cm3 @ 77ºF / 25ºC
pH:	N/A
FIRE & EXPLOSION DATA:
Flashpoint & Method:		N/A
Flammable Limits:		N/A
Extinguishing Methods:		Water, foam, carbon dioxide, dry chemical
Special Equipment & Procedures:		Self contained breathing apparatus and complete protective clothing.
REACTIVITY DATA:
Conditions Contributing to Instability:		Stable
Incompatible Substances:		None
Hazardous Decomposition Products:		Carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons, water.
Hazardous Polymerization:		Will not occur.

HEALTH HAZARDS DATA:

NOTE: Health studies have shown that exposure to chemicals pose potential risks which may vary from person to person. Exposure to liquids, vapours, mists or fumes should be minimized.

PRINCIPAL HEALTH HAZARDS:

Skin Contact: Minor irritation

Eye Contact: Minor irritation

Ingestion: Minor irritation

Inhalation: Minor irritation

FIRST AID PROCEDURES:

Skin: Wash with soap & water. If irritation persists see physician

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes. If irritation persists see physician.

Ingestion: Give 2 glasses of water. If irritation persists see physician.

Inhalation: Remove to fresh air.

PREVENTIVE MEASURES:

Skin: Always apply appropriate barrier cream to exposed skin. Wear impervious gloves (butyl rubber), coveralls and safety footwear.

Eyes: Chemical proof goggles or full face respirator if vapours cause eye irritation. 

Ingestion: Wash thoroughly before consuming food stuffs.

Inhalation: Use only in well ventilated areas or use NIOSH approved respiratory protection with organic vapour cartridges.

CONTROL MEASURES & PRECAUTIONS

Keep container tightly closed. Do not consume food, drink or tobacco in work area or material storage areas.

Use caution and personal cleanliness to avoid skin and eye contact. Avoid breathing vapours of heated materials. Use paper covering absorbent wipes and suitable disposable containers in work area.

SPILL, LEAK & DISPOSAL METHODS

Review fire and explosion hazards and safety precautions before proceeding with clean up. Restrict access to area. Contain spill to prevent dust from entering sewers or waterways. Place in suitable container for disposal.

DISPOSAL METHOD

Dispose only in a facility permitted to dispose of hazardous waste by Federal, Provincial and Municipal regulations.

SHIPPING INFORMATION

Shipping Name:

Hazard Class: Non Regulated

UN/PIN #:

Flashpoint:

WHMIS: D2B

The information contained herein is based on data that we believe to be accurate. No warranty either expressed or implied is made. This information is offered solely for your consideration interpretation and information. 

N/A = Not Available

Why Use A Welding Blanket

We all know that welding process will create high temperature sparks and flames, which will hurting people or articles in adjacent regions. A welding blanket can effectively provide the protection.

Heat Capacity

Most welding blankets will be stable up to around 1000 degree. Advanced models can be effective all the way up to 148 degrees C. These blankets are made of special materials that are flame, spark and slag retardant.

Fire Protection

Welding in a garage or other area that may have oil or gasoline on the floor is very dangerous because welding sparks and molten steel can ignite these substances. Placing a welding blanket under the area where work will be done greatly reduces the risk of fire.

Other Protection

Sometimes welders must weld in odd situations, such as near painted automotive panels or other items they do not wish to damage. Covering these items with a thermal welding blanket will protect them from the sparks and slag created by the welding process.

Difference in Fiberglass Cloth & Mat

Fiberglass is a composite material that includes extruded filaments of glass. The fiberglass used in the automotive industry and in boat building and hull repair is different from the fiberglass used for insulation. Rigid fiberglass can be held together with an epoxy resin. Fiberglass mat differs from fiberglass cloth in the way it is constructed and in its appearance.

History

• The ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians experimented with creating and using fiberglass. In 1880, fiberglass cloth was developed that was both durable and flame retardant. During the 20th century, fiberglass was improved and used as reinforcement in plastic laminates. When polyester resin was created, it was combined with fiberglass to form a fiberglass composite. In 1953, the first vehicle with a body made completely out of fiberglass-reinforced plastic was created, the Chevrolet Corvette.

Uses

• Fiberglass mat usually comes in large carpet-like rolls and is used for automotive and boat projects. It can be used to install speakers in a car while making a mold for them, or it can be used to repair the body of a marine vehicle. Fiberglass cloth has a smoother-looking finish, excellent for water-proofing wood or other surfaces when combined with resin. Fiberglass is also used in a variety of household fixtures, like shower stalls and bathtubs.

Mat

• Fiberglass mats make up most of a fiberglass body or kit. The strands of fiberglass in a mat are disorganized and can intermesh easily with the fibers of other mats, so they bond together. During construction, fiberglass mats are layered until the desired strength or thickness is achieved. Fiberglass mat has a higher density than fiberglass cloth.
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Cloth

• Fiberglass cloth is a layer of woven strands. It is strong, with a uniform appearance, and is used where the look of a project is important. The woven fibers do not intermesh with the fibers of other layers of fiberglass cloth.
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Caution

• When working with fiberglass, use a mask designed to work with it. Always protect all exposed skin, and wear gloves. Because fiberglass is essentially tiny glass shards, if your skin comes in contact with it, it will cause irritation, itching and rashes. Also, the resin or hardener used to hold the mats and cloth together can be dangerous to inhale, especially in confined areas.
• Source: http://www.ehow.com/about_5871674_difference-fiberglass-cloth-mat.html